It’s the wrong grommet, trousers!

…I spent hours arguing with a 90 degree angle. In the end, I had to admit he was right…

Peter’s comment on fitting grommets is well made. I couldn’t find any on tinternet – actually I couldn’t be bothered spending hours on it – so I came up with a cheap alternative…

…pipe couplers, to replace this, the original grommet…

…which was damaged…

…and to fit out another couple of holes. I had to enlarge the holes in the 5 pin socket, the NVR Switch casing and the corresponding holes in The Base. This solution worked well. Here’s the NVR Switch casing with the “grommet” fitted…

…and the 5 pin socket…

Another hole needed to be drilled, low down on the rear wall of the base, to allow entry for the power cable. I drilled it out using a 5mm bit to start then enlarged with the step drill. When I’d finished, I fitted a “grommet”. Unfortunately, the nut bottomed out before gripping the wall, so I had to shorten the threaded section with a hacksaw…

Drilling this hole proved problematic – it’ll be the subject of my next post – but now the rear wall of the base is finished and looks like this, with the new power cable entry hole visible beneath the 5 pin socket into which the motor cable plugs…

To finish up work on the base – apart from the wiring itself – I fitted the FORS (Forward Off Reverse Switch) back on. There were two minor problems. A, the two original bolt holes didn’t align well and 2, one of the holes fouled an internal cross bar…

The FORS only had two fixing bolts originally, but has four fixing holes available at the corners, so the solution was to drill two new holes in the opposite corners. The picture below shows the new holes at top right and bottom left. The hole at bottom right is the one which fouls the internal cross bar…

The picture below shows the front left panel of The Base, with the FORS and the casing for the NVR Switch. The FORS has a conduit to guide the cable, so doesn’t need a grommet. There’s no room for one anyway…


Between the last post and this one, I took a couple of days away from this project to put some shelving under my workbench, to solve a clutter problem which finally got me annoyed enough to do something about it.

I did all that work with hand tools only, apart from getting the plywood cut to size by B & Q. I used three hand drills with different bits in and the Hand Cranked Pillar Drill for the vertical holes. I honestly think that doing it this way was quicker – and more satisfying – than using power tools.

So that’s me getting over confident with the hand drills! Perhaps I needed a lesson…;

Published by Mr Linn

Jehovah’s Witness. A Woodworker. Quondam Aviator. A Workshop Builder (3 so far...). A Tool Refurbisher. A drummer. A space, planes, ships and tools nerd.

4 thoughts on “It’s the wrong grommet, trousers!

  1. James, James, James, this won’t do at all. The reason I was on about a grommet was electrical isolation. The brass coupler will still conduct leccy, I do not want your hair standing up on end (this is jealously on my part as I have virtually no hair) A rubber grommet is required.

  2. Yes, but the smooth insides of the brass couplers will prevent chafing in the first place. Isn’t that the purpose of a grommet? Them pesky electrons will never get out! The whole device is earthed as well.

    Actually, I found plastic couplers, but the threaded section was too short to go through the layers.

  3. I have to agree with Peter. For me, the salient fact is that they are ‘rubber’ grommets. I think it would be well worth the effort in trying to source the correct items. It is electrical isolation that is the key factor.

  4. I understand what you’re both saying, but I’m coming at it from a different angle. I see the grommet as preventing chafing, not protecting against leccy.

    The insides and ends of these brass couplers is smooth and shiny. The outside of the cables are smooth and shiny. They slide easily against each other. I’ve tried it. There’s no way chafing can occur. The brass has a sturdiness which helps keep the assemblies robust.

    The leccy runs in copper wires enclosed in insulation which are then wrapped in further insulation. That’s a lot to get through by rubbing by a sharp or abrasive surface, a surface which is not present. The leccy can’t get out under any circumstances!

    Protection for me against attacking electrons is afforded by my RCDs in my workshop’s consumer unit.

    Remember I mentioned the plastic conduits? Too flimsy. They are actually more likely to fail and allow the chafing. Remember the original grommet in the picture above? Why did it break? Does that mean it wasn’t up to the task?

    What d’you think?

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